Shadows, gestures & line

Andrew and I had a lot of fun designing and making the Fold and Cascade collections together. Naturally many things inspired us as we developed the pieces. Some of these influences materialised in the ways we viewed the relationships of shadow and light, of line and motion, as well as the sense of atmosphere these elements lend to a piece and the collection overall. As designers there are certain “moves” or “phrases” we return to that determine our style whether that is a preferred treatment of a line or a combination of colours that can identify one designer from another. Yet the inspiration behind specific works can spring from a myriad of unexpected sources while still being communicated through personal stylistic choices. We enjoy sharing with each other the authors and artists that interest us and later finding how consciously or subconsciously these things can leave their mark on our sensibilities or open us to new ways of seeing.

Shibata Zeshin (1807-1891), Lacquered wood panel with design of a farmhouse in the snow at Sano, Meiji era (1868–1912), dated 1883.jpg

Earlier in the year Andrew shared a book with me that resonated with both of us. We found ourselves revisiting the enchanting essay by Junichiro Tanizaki “In Praise of Shadows” often while developing the collections. Through his descriptions Tanizaki renders everyday objects magical and mysterious by his ability to appreciate the differences that subtle changes in light can produce. He revels in observing the profound influence that living within the shaded interior of traditional Japanese interiors has had on the way that people traditionally experienced beauty. The relationship with light is like a battle with the deep shadows which surround the pale walls and the gold speckled cabinets; they need only the tentative flickering of a candle light to catch their beauty or the last, weak, diffused rays of the sun in order to be appreciated properly. He pulls us gently into the darkness after him to sink into the sensual richness of life in the shadows.

There is a sense of tradition in these experiences, an appreciation for materials, an understanding accumulated over generations. We can’t help but experience the mystery as he describes the flickering of the candle light on black lacquerware as the “depth of a still, dark pond.” How full of feeling and richness is life when we open our senses to it. As we are working with silver we are keenly aware of the play of light and shadow over the undulating surfaces. We grow more curious about creating landscapes with deep crevices for shadows to rest and create dynamic contrasts to the brightly polished reflective surfaces.

In order to create the forms we considered the motion of each piece and distilled the forms to communicate this motion through key lines in the design. Throughout this process we found ourselves drawn to renowned dancer and choreographer Pina Bausch. Her movements are so visceral, emotional and personal, at times even seemingly chaotic, but there is strength in every gesture. Emotion channelled through in a distinctly intentional manner. Although physically Pina was slim and waif-like she communicates profoundly with every gesture imbued with humanity and power.

A traditional chaji dinner and tea ceremony by candlelight.jpg
Pina gesture.jpg

It makes me think of the many ways in which artists communicate lines, a feature that displays the style of the artist just as the manner in which a dancer executes gestures reveals the dancer. In both dance and design it is often the simple and considered moves or lines made with a strong intention and motivated by true feeling that touch us and linger in our minds. We strive towards finding these gestures within our work that can resonate and capture the imagination through exploring influences that have captivated us in unexpected ways.

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Backstage of the fall/winter 2020 collection